Prague ~ a little train that could

Early on, when planning this trip I discovered the Live Like a Local website…well worth visiting before you go anywhere.  One of the Prague locals posted about a historic two car train that runs only on weekends and goes out into the suburbs and through some forests in the outskirts of the city.  Called Prazsky Semmering.  Here’s the official photo:

On Saturday, having already done our Old Town walking tour and the Castle hill, we decided to flee the weekend crowds and try this little train.  Turned out to be one of those confusing, not quite what we expected,  yet somehow still fun excursions.

First up was finding the platform at a lesser used and somewhat seedy rail station in Prague.  Through sign language and a bit of English-Czech we bought a ticket and following the ticket agent’s pointed directions to walk over the main rail tracks (via a bridge) then down in the back — well beyond the regular trains.  As you can see, it was a bit disconcerting – we seemed to be in a rail maintenance yard.

There was a solitary cute, woman station agent in a red hat…who didn’t speak any English, but dutifully marched us to the exact spot where we needed to be and then pointed which way the little train would come. No seats, no station — just a cement walkway between train tracks.

 

But the fun wasn’t the scenery, as much as the experience.  We were all by ourselves, except for two young families taking the little ones for a train ride.  An hour long, pleasant little ride that  went through the city, then through some of the more sketchy outskirts, through business/tech parks (just like home), and then through forests and some countryside.

This little train finally stopped at a long ago closed station, with just a bench.  We were told to get off  for 10 minutes.  We gamely got off with the others, watched the little ones run around, and then climbed back on and headed back on the same track. The train itself was quite old and nicely restored.  Here’s the photos, inside and outside.

When we got back to Prague we exited the train station only to stumble into an old car show…where Husband took many pictures to share with my Dad – his comrade in the love of old cars.  I’ll save you the boredom and only share a few photos.  Me posing with a 1953 MGTD (Dad has a 1952 red one).  Don’t worry Dad, all the other photos are saved to share with you later.

After looking over (every one of) the antique cars and motorcycles, one of us insisted on (by now) a late lunch.  Our usual practice is to cut down a side lane and find an out of the way café.  Bingo, a wonderful sunlit filled airy little place.  We went native and let ourselves linger over a long, leisurely lunch.

On the way back it started to shower.  We ducked under a cover in a little city park —  just across the river from our building – the yellow one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And this, the ‘dancing building’ is right at the end of the bridge over to our building, turns out to be a great landmark.

Back at said apartment we watched the royal wedding recap with some late evening cheese bits left over from a previous dinner before finally going to bed.

A nice day.

Prague ~~ The Castle

I’m going to stop the count of days, I’m already behind and it’s annoying for both of us.  So from here on, I’ll just focus on the adventure — and happily loose track of the days.

After our heady experience at the Monastery, we hiked down the hill to the beautiful Loreta Church.  (It’s still early in our trip, so  I’m not yet weary of churches and/or cathedrals).  A must see site for pilgrims and considered Prague’s most beautiful Baroque church.  Here, you’ll see,

 

Another hike down hill through some winding streets brought us to the Prague Castle —

 

Beset with long ticket lines and throngs of tour groups each with their own guide holding up some kitschy sort of  ‘follow me’ pole.  After not much discussion, we quickly agreed to tour the grounds and gardens and skip trying to fight our way into the Castle itself.

The complex has been the seat of Czech power for centuries.  A bit imposing for these two little travelers.  Within its walls are several museums, Czech’s greatest hits church (Cathedral of St. Vitus) and various palaces for visiting archbishops and aristocratic families.  Our necks craned, we happily wandered just looking and pointing like everyone else.  Here’s a much edited series of photos.  (If you’re ever bored, let me know and I can show you many, many more…)

A little side note – The Czechs have been crazy for this envelope style of building design – you see it everywhere, even on the buildings outside the castle grounds.

After a couple of hours of photos (see I told you I have many) and gawping, we headed down through the gardens and vineyards and saw some spectacular views of the city.

Thus endeth this fine day in Prague.  We closed our evening with purchasing a European sim card for our phone, and bought some ready to heat pasta and a takeaway salad from Tesco’s for dinner. Total cost of dinner $4 – we live large.

Thanks all, for stopping by.  More tomorrow.

 

Prague Day 2, in which I geek out

First a correction on yesterday’s post, both Prague’s Old and New Towns are located on the East side of the Vltava river. (This is why Husband is in charge of navigation.)

Today we explored the West side of the river – the Castle quarter – the area of the famous castle which dominates the Prague skyline.  In an effort to save our feet and leg muscles, we took the tram to the top of the hilly quarter, resulting in lovely downhill treks for the day.

We started up at the Strahov Monastery and its library (one of the world’s famous libraries and on my bucket list).  And oh my, dear readers, what a library (warning, this is where I loose my mind a bit…).

Strahov was a medieval monastery that functioned not only as a place of worship and learning, but also as a world famous brewery.  The beer hall and brewery are still in full function today. Couldn’t find a happier place for BookBarmy and Husband.

First we’ll visit the library with an official photo (cause you just have see it photographed by a professional), then my attempts from the doorway.  You have to stay in the hallway and crane your neck to peer in at the 10-17th century books all basking under elaborately painted ceilings. (Only my fear of international arrest and a Hague trial prevented me from jumping over the barricades to run through this glorious space.)

First the publicity shot, then my photos…

 

This last photo are xylotéka, a collection of 68 “tree books” made by Karel of Hinterlagen around 1825. Fascinating — each “volume” is really a box documenting one European tree. The box cover is made from the wood of the tree and covered with its bark and any lichen that grew on that specific tree. Inside each box, are different parts of that tree – a root, a twig, a leaf, a dried piece of its fruit, even its insects, such a beetles.  The boxes are protected behind glass though, so you can only see them from the outside. This Strahov xylotéka is one of only two such collections in Europe.  (I warned you I would geek out.)  There were other specimen books, holy books, and a gold locked case at the far end of the library, which contained libri prohibiti — books by Copernicus, Rousseau, and (mon deau) the French encyclopedia.

Walking a bit above the ground and well past lunch time, I was gently led over to the Monastery brewery. We considered eating in one of the many beer halls which go on forever – room after room of long tables in dark stone halls.  (Turns out this is a revenue enterprise today hosting bachelor parties and drunken corporate events.) We chose instead to eat outside, given such a lovely day. Met some lovely ladies with beautiful dogs – the dogs communicated for us over our language differences.

Husband reluctantly posing — but trust me he was smiling over his beer.

Sorry folks, but the rest of Day 2 in Prague will have to wait as sleep calls.

Prague ~~ Day 1

We flew to Helsinki and then here to Prague.  Arrived Wednesday evening and a driver associated with our home exchange apartment (normally an AirBnB), met us at the airport.  A very nice plan as we didn’t have to worry about finding the place.  When we arrived, we were met by our home exchanger’s son who showed us around, recommend a couple of restaurants in the neighborhood and the closest grocery market.  A student with perfect English, he was in the midst of exams, so handed us the keys, gave us his phone number (if we needed anything) and was blessedly quick (given our travel weariness).

Here’s the building with our apartment – we’re on the second floor in back overlooking a little rooftop garden next door. Husband as photographic perspective for the very large front door.

The apartment is on a dead end which faces the Vltava river, so it’s very quiet.  We slept like logs and woke early for Day 1 in Prague.

Here’s the river overlook across from the apartment.

 

This river divides Prague into two sections Old Town (10th century) and New Town –(new meaning only 600 years old). First something very interesting.  We thought our trip was to travel through Eastern Europe — Prague, Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest.  But it turns out the residents of these cities/countries prefer it be called Central Europe – we are, in fact, in the exact center of Europe.   Eastern Europe harkens back to Soviet rule.  So Central Europe it will be.

We donned rain jackets (off and on showers) and head out to do Rick Steve’s old town walking tour. Decided a rainy weekday might avoid the hoards of tour bus groups Rick warns about.

First, we had a wonderful breakfast at a local café, eggs scrambled ever so lightly with cheese and homemade bread to die for.  Even with two coffees and bottled water the entire breakfast came to $9.  Prague, it seems, is going to very affordable.  Noticed as left the café that good Czech beer is less than $2.   Husband is in a very good mood.

 

We crossed one of many bridges and watched some locks in action.

We wandered back streets towards the Old Town area and marveled at the buildings and architecture .  Prague is known not only for its medieval and Baroque architecture, but also for some fabulous Art Nouveau buildings and facades.

Suddenly we came into the Old Town Square

 

We spun slowly to take in all the diverse architectural styles – from Gothic to  Rococo to Baroque and more Art Nouveau.  Prague is largely so beautifully persevered because it was spared bombings during WWII that leveled so many other Eastern– Central European cities.  Sorry for the clouds and rain, but you’ll get a taste of it all.

 

Dodging rain showers we ducked  into some of the less tacky shops.  Such as this fascinating, but somewhat creepy, marionette shop.

 

 

More of our self guided tour and exploring some side areas.

 

We went over to Wenceslas Square which was once (Rick says) a thriving horse market, but now contains every possible fashion store, fast food chains and sausage stands.  Spied a Marks & Spencer (a British department store chain) so went up to their café for a proper cuppa of British tea – a much needed break.

Did some more exploring of Old Town area but then suddenly feeling very tired, we headed back to the apartment, rested up, and had a dinner at a neighborhood restaurant.  I’ll leave you with two images ~~

First, we walked by this office building, a reminder that, not very long ago, Prague was under Soviet rule.

Another reminder of tougher times.  Our dinner at a restaurant near our apartment, was delicious but dominated by stewed meat, dumplings, cheese and potatoes — that little dash of  orange –lower right – that’s  a scant 1/4 cup of carrot shavings – the only vegetable in sight.

 

 

Travel Barmy

I haven’t been every where.  But it’s on my list

Susan Sontang

 

Well Barmy followers, we’re off again — this time to Central Europe.

We leave next week and the list of things to do is sobering.  Absentee voting, preparing the house for our exchange partners, but the most challenging will be cramming everything into a backpack.

Yes, we are packing light this trip, as we’ll be traveling solely by train and bus while visiting several big cities.  So in a moment of madness, and after watching an inspiring ‘packing light with Rick Steves video’,  I agreed with the notion that  we would each take one (that’s one) backpack.  Thank goodness for my compact little Kindle full of unread books.

First stop; Prague. Watch this space for photos and travel journal.  Please be kind and ignore us wearing the same clothes.  (We will have washing machines in each apartment we’re staying, so our clothes will be clean, but may look vaguely familiar.)

In the meantime, I’ll re-post one of my most popular blog entries…

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The Un-Comfort Zone

The joy (and the challenge) of travel is often what I call the un-comfort zone. And the in-transit part really proves that concept.  California to Europe is a grueling 11-12 hour flight.

At first, one anticipates this time as a delightful sort of  suspended animation — so much time to read. But, by hour 6 you have lost all interest in reading, watching movies or being civil to your travel companion.  By hour 7, you are slipping in and out of sleep in a semi-conscious state.  Hour 9 – and you are ready to admit that traveling is the pits and consider a second mortgage to upgrade to first class.  By the last two hours you are picking at the in-flight breakfast, looking at your watch and secretly wishing you had stayed home with NetFlix..  The flight ends and you glare at the annoying guy in front of you who spent the entire flight with his seat fully reclined into your lap. And with with crusty eyes and swollen ankles you stumble off the plane.

Then you find your way to the train (let’s see train in German — Bahn?) and check into the budget hotel you found right next to the train station. Your room overlooks a busy street corner and you wonder how you will sleep.  After quick showers (and figuring out said same shower system) you feel almost human and together you strike out to walk around, get some fresh air, daylight and try to adapt to the new time zone. A light meal is in order so you choose a cute cafe with outdoor seating and order the inevitable room-temperature drinks and an overpriced salad to share. You start to relax – watching the locals come home from work and you sigh with happiness.  The blatt blatt of the European police car in the distance, the striking of the church bells, and your surly waiter all secure the fact  — you have arrived.

You are far away from home.  A familiar world where you understand the plumbing, a world with cold drinks (and ice), a place where you don’t have to give serious thought to every choice — and all in a language you fully comprehend.

This is the joy and pain of what I call the un-comfort zone.  One has to embrace the discomfort — because this is what kicks your butt out of your safe, easy and predictable world —  you have shaken off your soft world and taken on one that is often confusing, uncomfortable yet inevitably  fascinating, beautiful and eye-opening.

This is why you travel – this why you are here.

A Diverse Trip – Part Two

Second Stop:  Tehachapi, California

“Uhh, hey look we’re not in Palm Springs anymore…”

Yes, we were greeted by a herd of elk, this guy, obviously in charge.  We watched as Bubba here and his harem of at least seven females passed through.

Where is Tehachapi?  Well, the nearest big city is Bakersfield, California. It’s up in the hills and home to many fascinating things ~ at least for one of us.

The largest wind farm facility in California, which we toured on the first day…

Strangely beautiful, these windmills are everywhere on the hills and those are black tailed deer in the last photo.

Day Two:  we waited for a train — then another train — and then another train.  Why?  Well, who knew? But Tehachapi is the home of the world famous Tehachapi Railroad Loop.

Let me try and explain…

without nodding off…

Apparently an engineering marvel, and built back in the 1800’s this loop allows freight trains to travel a circuitous route, in which the track passes over itself, a design which lessens the angle of the grade.  (OK I stole that from Wikipedia – did you think I could even try to remember such interesting facts?)

We climb up a hill to watch for a train to go through this loop, but once up there Husband finally reveals that the trains come every 15 minutes (more or less).  So I pulled out my trusty book, found some warm sun and a picnic table and we waited for the train (but no that was trains) — to loop through a series of tunnels and hard turns so you see the train wind back on itself.   Husband took a massive amount of photos, these are the best.

But wait, there’s more, he exclaimed as he returned (I had retreated back to the warm car after the third train passing) — there’s a railroad museum in town.  I tried to hide my excitement as we drove down the hill.  Luckily there was a quilt shop just across the street, so someone missed the fascinating museum.

Day Three:  we had a lovely hike up into the hills where we saw more deer and lots of blue sky.  Then relaxed in our cabin with books and adult beverages.

Day Four:  Husband Bucket List check off

Because of the winds (remember the wind farm? -how could you forget?) there’s an airport offering glider plane rides and lessons.  Husband was very excited, he has always wanted to do this.  So, with my subdued agreement, he booked himself a beginners lesson.

A glider is a flimsy lightweight plane which has no engine and is pulled up into the stratosphere by a pilot plane (with engine) and then released to careen wildly soar gently back to earth.

I took photos from terra firma while chewing off my chapstick.

Yes the glider is so light they can easily push it onto the runway.  (Here’s me applying more chapstick.)

Husband drifted back to earth eventually, the winds were so good they stayed up longer than usual, enjoying the gliding. I was offered a trip up there, but declined.

Now, lest you think I was cheated on these two weeks – that these were Husband focused adventures – well my time is coming up next year with a trip to Europe.   And it involves concerts, royal palaces, and even horses…so stay tuned.

Plus how could I not melt at this happy Husband – priceless